Distinct Landscape Design Blog

Pruning Young Trees

March 28th, 2008

Being in the landscape profession, I am constantly noticing my natural surroundings and the marks we have or have not made on it. There is nothing more impressive than looking at a healthy, well structured established mature shade tree. Unfortunately experiencing this fine natural architecture is very rare. Instead more often than not I come across a large tree looking like it is ready to topple over because one entire half is missing as a result of the need to clear a path for the over head utilities; or a mature tree so thick with narrow, weak branching that any time the wind blows there seems to be large limbs scattering the ground around the tree or dangling from the canopy just ready for the opportune time to fall and fit some unsuspecting bi standard.

These types of hazards and many more are avoidable if the proper care is taken when the tree is young. First off, consider the specific tree you are wanting to plant and its mature size in relation to its placement. Do not plant a shade tree under a 15′ utility easement or 3′ away from the foundation of your home. Proper placement of a tree will save you lots of money and headaches in the future. Proper pruning of the tree when young is key to a successful majestic shade tree that everyone wish to spend hours day dreaming under. The tips given below are gained from my experience as well as several great resources I encourage you to check out and find out more about the specific species of tree you want to care for.

Resources:

Brickell, Christoper and David Joyce. The American Horticultural Society Pruning and Training. New York, NY 1996.

Lilly, Sharon J. The international Society of Arboriculture Arborists’ Certification Study Guide. Champaign, IL 2001.

Also check out the ISA official website.

REASONS TO PRUNE:

Hazards

Heath

Aesthetics

Structural Pruning:

Picture provided by ISA

Ideally a healthy, attractive and safe tree (unless grown as a multi stem tree, i.e. river birch) should have one central leader. More often competing leaders are the case and turn into problems later as the tree matures. Establishing this dominant leader is much easier and safer for the tree if done while the tree is young, usually starting in the nursery. If this was overlooked in the nursery please take it upon yourself to take care of this problem while the tree is still young.

1. Pick the strongest vertical stem and subordinated (cut back) or remove completely the competing leader.

2. Select and establish the lowest permanent branch. First determine the function and location of tree in order to determine the height of the lowest branch. The diameter of this branch should be less than half of the diameter of the trunk where it attaches to the trunk.

3. Select the scaffold branches. These are the branches of the tree that provide the shape/form of the tree. These are selected based on size, attachment and spacing in relation to one another. Vertical spacing, recommended 12-18 inches, radial spacing recommend that the tree is balanced.

4. Select the temporary branches. These branches serve many purposes including contributing to the tapering of the trunk, energy reserves, and shading for the immature trunk tissue. Smaller temporary branches can stay in tact; the larger ones should be subordinated, by cutting them in half, slowing their growth with time.

5. Remove any dead, diseased, rubbing or crossing branches.

Tips to remember:

Training of a tree usually takes between 5-7 years. No more than 20-25% of the trees canopy should be removed in one year.

Prune from the outside-in so you do not get carried away with removing all the internal foliage

Inspect the tree regularly, especially as site conditions changes (i.e.) patio built close by (anything that could change the growth, or structure of the tree.

Pruning of larger limbs or pruning that requires you getting up on a ladder should be contracted out by a certified arborist.

When to prune:

Depends on the species of tree, time of year, health, as well as site conditions.

Typically deciduous trees should be pruned when the tree is dormant. The structure of the tree is easier to see during this time, and there is less stress put on the tree.

Spring Flowering Trees can be pruned early summer after the sap flow has slowed or stopped

Do not prune specific species during the time of year they are prone to disease/pest infestation (i.e. oaks, elms)

**Learn more about the specific tree you are pruning for more specific details on when to prune**

How to Prune:

(Check out USDA Forest Service Website for detailed info)

1. Pick the strongest vertical stem and subordinated (cut back) or remove completely the competing leader.

5. Remove any dead, diseased, rubbing or crossing branches.

Tips to remember:

Training of a tree usually takes between 5-7 years. No more than 20-25% of the trees canopy should be removed in one year.

Prune from the outside-in so you do not get carried away with removing all the internal foliage

Inspect the tree regularly, especially as site conditions changes (i.e.) patio built close by (anything that could change the growth, or structure of the tree.

Pruning of larger limbs or pruning that requires you getting up on a ladder should be contracted out by a certified arborist.

When to prune:

Depends on the species of tree, time of year, health, as well as site conditions.

Typically deciduous trees should be pruned when the tree is dormant. The structure of the tree is easier to see during this time, and there is less stress put on the tree.

Spring Flowering Trees can be pruned early summer after the sap flow has slowed or stopped

Do not prune specific species during the time of year they are prone to disease/pest infestation (i.e. oaks, elms)

**Learn more about the specific tree you are pruning for more specific details on when to prune**

How to Prune:

(Check out USDA Forest Service Website for detailed info)

Picture provided by: ISA Arborists’ Certification Study Guide

Picture Provided by: The American Horticultural Society Pruning and Training

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PLANT OF THE MONTH:JULY

June 30th, 2007

ROSE OF SHARON

ALTHEA SYRIACUS

Many will agree July is the month the garden reaches its fullest potential, providing such a variety of color, flower forms and sizes, as well an assortment of fragrance. Althea syriacus, also known as Hardy Hibiscus or Rose of Sharon is a must have and favorite for the mid-summer garden providing many of these qualities.

This easy to care for plant can be used in a variety of ways, including as a large multi stemmed shrub functioning as a showy privacy screen, or more as small tree pruned on a standard as more of a specimen/focal point. Althea also works well on the patio garden as a container planting or included in a raised planter. Althea’s various forms lends itself well in either a formal or less formal setting.

This plant is adaptable to variety of climates from Zone 5-9 and tolerant of a variety of well drained soils. Althea will produce flowers in both sun/part shade conditions. The showy and fragrant flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds and those wanting to add a tropical look to their garden. Bloom colors vary from purple, white, red, pink, and blue.

Pests to look out for are Aphids and Japanese Beetles. Bacterial leaf spot and fungus can also be a problem under wet conditions.

Although the flower is showy, the fruit is not, which allows for less of a mess in the garden and is a good choice for areas around patios and drives.

GROWN IN STANDARD TREE FORM Picture taken from hiltonpond.org TROPICAL LOOK OF THE BLOOM